March 20th marks the first day of spring. This hopeful season is full of growth and new possibilities. It is a time to explore activities, breathe in the fresh air, and enjoy a little bit of sunshine.
Did you know that the name spring is all about flowers? According to the Online Etymology Dictionary , the word spring comes from the Old English Word Springan which means “to leap, burst forth, fly up, spread and grow”. It’s the perfect name for the season that marks flowers bursting from the ground, new buds on trees, and fresh starts.
As much as we want to get planting in the ground. It’s still about two months too early. So, what can you do to capture that spring feeling when snow or frost covers the ground?
It’s simple-bring spring indoors!
Are you thinking of starting a vegetable garden this year? Growing your own vegetables is a great way to get exercise, enjoy fresh flavours, explore new varieties, and save money.
Seeds should be started at least six to eight weeks before they get into the ground, which makes the end of March the perfect time for planting. To get started all you need are a few simple tools including potting soil, small pots (or a seed starting tray), and of course the seeds.
Seed starting kits, like the line of products from Jiffy, make it easy for both beginners and vegetable garden veterans to sprout their seeds indoors.
Beans, peas, sunflowers, lettuce, and pumpkin are just a few of the seeds that are the simplest to get started. However, don’t stop there. Why not add some colour to your plate with rainbow carrots, rainbow swiss chard, and an array of tomatoes and peppers? Introducing these new and innovative varieties into your garden is an inexpensive way to treat yourself to a gourmet experience.
Got Spring Fever? We get it. Spring is an opportunity to give your home a bit of a refresher. So, open those windows, listen to the birds and let’s add some spring décor into your home.
Bursts of teal, orange, and cobalt blue will beautifully brighten your home. For a quick fix: simply replace your cozy winter blankets with spring-themed throw pillows. Our favourites this year include beautiful images of hummingbirds, butterflies, and dragonflies.
Brighten up your doorway with a spring everlasting wreath. These beautiful wreaths are easy to maintain and are a great way to refresh your door year after year. Make your own or buy one that is already made, like our cherry blossoms or lavender wreath.
There are so many ways infuse your home with the feeling of spring. Change up your place settings, rotate your prints, or simply add some spring hued flowerpots to brighten up your space.
Spring is all about the flowers. Potted spring bulbs are a fun way to bring the colours of aromas of spring into your home. Bright-coloured kalanchoes and tropical hibiscuses are two other varieties that will help add that splash of spring.
Spring package kits (including bulbs, primulas, and ranunculus) are a fun way to enjoy your favourite spring bulbs early. These kits can easily be started indoors and then transplanted into your favourite outdoor urn for a burst of spring colour in your entryway.
There’s no need to wait for the snow to melt to enjoy the first hints of spring. Bright colours, newly sprouted seeds, and the aroma of spring flowers will help transform your indoor space into a spring oasis.
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As the snow melts away, you may be surprised to find that your once, lush green lawn is less vibrant. The accumulative effect of salt, snow, wind, and frosty weather can cause damage to both the roots and tips of your grass. But that’s not all, winter may have been hiding some unexpected surprises, including mould and root damage from voles.
Keep your eye out for these Tell-tale signs of Lawn Damage
Lawn Burn
Tell-Tale Sign: Brown or Yellow Grass
Grass thrives in a naturally alkaline environment. However, a season of salt spray and build-up can create patches of yellow and brown grass. If left alone, these weakened areas will become prone to weeds and insects.
Treatment: Salt not only burns the tips of the grass, but it can also seep into the soil, creating an acidic environment where grass may struggle to survive. When treating salt-impacted areas, the first goal is to neutralize the soil. This includes rinsing away any salt build-up and adding Dolomitic Lime to help rebalance the PH of the soil. Once the treatment plan is done, remove the dead patches of grass and replenish the area with nutrient-rich compost and grass seed.
Snow Mould
Tell-Tale Sign: Pink or Gray Patches
Remember that surprise snowfall we had in early November? Well, early and late snowfalls can result in snow mould growing on your lawn. A tell-tale sign of mould is pink or gray patches in your lawn.
Treatment: Rake the area to allow the mould to dry and loosen the grass. In severe cases, remove the dying grass and fill in the patches with nutrient-rich soil, like Garden Gallery Triple Mix, and grass seed.
Voles
Tell-Tale Sign: Trails of exposed dirt
If you’re noticing trails of turned-up dirt, you most likely have voles. These little rodents tend to feast on grubs and as a direct result may also end up nibbling on roots and tubers as they forage for their food.
Treatment: Replenish the bare areas with Garden Gallery’s Triple Mix and grass seed. To help manage the voles, remove any wood chips or piles of leaves, trim any low layer of branches and mow your lawn regularly. Voles like to burrow and are attracted to areas that have a lot of vegetation and spots to hide. This clean-up process will help limit any potential hiding spots for these rodents.
This walk-around will help you target and treat any damage that may have occurred over the winter. However, all lawns need care and attention after a season of nutrient deprivation and stress. These six simple steps will help get your spring lawn off to a great start.
Six Easy Steps for a Healthy Spring Lawn
Step 1: Rake
Raking will help remove any grass that may have died over the winter and prevent it from growing into thatch. The process will loosen up the soil, any dead/damaged grass, and remove any debris (leaves, branches) that may have been lingering since fall.
Step 2: Aerate
Areas in your lawn that are compacted, typically high traffic areas, will make it harder for your lawn to get the nutrients and water that it needs. Aeration will help break up the soil so that both your existing and new grass roots will have room to grow.
Step 3: Top Dress
Spread a thin layer of compost or Garden Gallery Triple Mix over your entire lawn. This will add moisture and nutrients back into your soil. Seasonal topdressing is the key to improving the overall health of your lawn, creating an environment that grass will thrive in. As an added bonus: top dressing will also help breakdown thatch and smooth out uneven areas in your property.
Step 4: Seed
Adding new grass seed to your lawn is the best way to create rich, lush turf. Garden Gallery has a full line of Elite Grass Seed, including all-purpose, shade, and sun, making it easy to choose the right seed for your area. As an added benefit, regular reseeding your lawn will help keep weeds under control as the empty spaces in your lawn will now be filled with healthy, grass.
Step 5: Protect
For an extra layer of protection, add a layer of Corn Gluten to your lawn in Early Spring (the sooner the better). When applied to lawns, corn gluten can be a very effective natural pre-emergent herbicide stopping weeds from taking root. Apply the first application of corn gluten early in spring, during a short (two to three days) dry period. These dry days are necessary to make sure that the corn gluten is effective in stopping any emerging crabgrass or weeds from rooting. For best results, apply corn gluten every four to six weeks to help prevent weeds from rooting all season long.
Step 6: Fertilize
Give your lawn a bit of a kickstart with a boost of fertilizer. Products like Garden Gallery Spring and Summer Fertilizer 22-4-10, for general application or Garden Gallery Sod and Seed Food 10-22-10 to help new seeds and sod establish strong roots.
Weeds and insects like to seek out lawn that is either dead, damaged, or weak. Following this six-step process each spring will help establish a healthy foundation for your lawn. The end result-a lawn that is green, healthy, and able to resist disease and weeds.
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Rocks are best situated where the plants will receive maximum sunshine and not be shaded by trees.
In addition to perennials and small spring flowering bulbs such as Crocus, Snowdrop and Winter Aconite, using dwarf evergreen enhances and maintains year-round interest in any rock garden. Many varieties of Dwarf Spruce, Yew and Hemlock are very suitable and widely available.
Dense Spreading Yew
Sedum
Sedum is a very important rock garden family. Dozens of varieties are readily available and hundreds are possible. All sedum varieties flower in their season from early summer to late fall. Flower colours vary from pink, red, white or yellow. More important than their flowers, however, is their interesting and colourful foliage. Sedums are a MUST in any rock garden.
Hens and Chickens
Another important rock garden plant, Sempervivum has fleshy rosettes of foliage with the mother plant surrounded by many small plantlets. These can be detatched and planted in another spot.
Varieties of Sedum & Supervivum
Foliage Plants
There are many named varieties, all with interesting colourful leaves. They include:
Moss Campion – Silene Schafta
Blue-eyed Grass – Sisyrinchium
Lamb’s Ears – Satchys
Germander – Teuchrium
Thyme
Many varieties of Thyme are available. All are flowering plants but are valued more for their foliage ñ in shades of green, plus gray, gold and silver.
Veronica & Viola
Many small Violet-Viola, Veronicas, or Speedwells are available, including creeping varieties.
Grasses
The smaller, clump-forming (non-invasive) grasses add great charm and quite a different touch in a rock garden. Recommended ñ Blue Fescue varieties, Tuberous Oat Grass, Blue Oat Grass, June Grass (Koeleria), plus grass-like plants such as Sedges (Carex) and Wood Rush (Luzula).
Rock Garden Perennials A-Z
Common Name Botanical Name
Wooly Yarrow Achillea
Lebanon or Persian Cress Aethionema
Bugle Flower Ajuga
Lady’s Mantle Alchemilla
Ornamental Onion Allium moly and others
Basket of Gold Alyssum
Pearly Everlasting Anaphalis
Rock Jasmine Androsace
Pasque Flower Anemone or Pulsatilla
Pussy Toes Antennaria
Dwarf Columbine Aquilegia
Rock Cress Arabis
Thrift Armeria
Silver Mound Artemisia
Silver Brocade Artemisia
Alpine Aster Aster
Dwarf Astilbe Astilbe
Purple Rock Cress Aubretia
English Daisy Bellis
Heartleaf Bergenia
Slipperwort Calceolaria
Carpathian Harebell Campanula
Dalmation Bellflower Campanula
Silver Thistle Carlina
Dwarf Coreopsis Coreopsis
Dianthus/Pinks Dianthus
Dwarf Columbine Dicentra eximia
Draba Draba
Cushion Spurge Euphorbia
Indian Strawberry Fragaria
Yellow Bedstraw Galium
Creeping Baby’s Breath Gypsophila
Rock Rose/Sun Rose Helianthemum
Coral Bells Heuchera
St. John’s Wort (Dwarf) Hypericum
Houstonia Houstonia
Hardy Gloxinia Incarvillea
Dead Nettle Lamium
Golden Flax Linum flavum
Catmint Nepeta
Prickly Pear Opuntia
Dwarf Beardstongue Penstemon
Perennial Potentilla Potentilla
Rock Soapwort Saponaria
Dwarf Blanket Flower Gaillardia
True Geranium Geranium
Geum Geum
Strawflower Helichrysum
Hosta (sun tolerant varieties) Hosta
Hutchinsia Hutchinsia
Candy Tuft Iberis
Dwarf Iris Iris pupils
Edelweiss Leontopodium
Dwarf Feverfew Matricaria
Evening Primrose Oenothera
Iceland Poppy Papaver
Creeping Phlox Phlox
Gold Moss Sagina
Bulbs can be planted in almost every type of container, providing it has good drainage. The bulbs will be planted closer together in containers than outdoors. You can combine bulbs with other plants or with other bulbs to prolong flowering enjoyment.
]]>Bulbs can bring spring cheer indoors and brighten up your home, particularly in the middle of the long winter.
Bulbs can be planted in almost every type of container, providing it has good drainage. The bulbs will be planted closer together in containers than outdoors. You can combine bulbs with other plants or with other bulbs to prolong flowering enjoyment.
1
Select a pot that is not too small so that several bulbs can be planted at the same time. Cover the bottom with a layer of pot shard or clay marbles for better drainage.
2
Partially fill the pot with soil, (you can also use the marbles o stone chips), and pat down lightly. Next, press the bulbs slightly into the soil. They can almost be touching each other. Place tulip bulbs with their flat side toward the wall of the pot, so leaves will grow on the outside and flowers on the inside of the planter.
3
Put additional soil in the pot so that the tips of the bulbs disappear under the soil. Water the soil liberally to encourage rooting. It would be wise to dust with bulb Dust Fungicide.
4
Give the planted bulbs the required cooling period.
Popular Varieties |
Planting Time |
# of Weeks of Cold |
Earliest Bloom From |
Hyacinths |
09-15 / 12-1511-01 / 12-01 |
10-1211-13 |
12-1501-15 |
Tulips BlendaFlairProminenceYellow PresentArmaPrincess Irene |
10-01 / 12-0110-01 / 12-0110-01 / 12-0110-01 / 12-0110-01 / 12-0110-01 / 12-01 |
14-1513-1414-1515-1715-1715-17 |
01-1512-2501-1502-1502-1502-15 |
Daffodils |
10-01 / 12-0110-01 / 12-01 |
12-1312-1315-16 |
01-1501-1502-15 |
Special Bulbs |
10-01 / 11-0110-01 / 11-0110-01 / 11-01 |
14-1512-1314-15 |
02-0101-0502-01 |
Landscape Ontario Horticultural Trades Association represents the leading garden centres in Ontario. As one of the select garden centres which has achieved “Approved Member” status, we assure our customers receive a high level of service, a good range of quality plants and associated products, together with professional advice and information.
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Did you know adding plants to your home or office can reduce stress, boost productivity, and improve air quality? Those are some serious benefits and that’s before mentioning the beauty and style house plants provide.
Almost everyone loves houseplants, but unfortunately, not everyone is born with a green thumb. If plans don’t seem to thrive under your care, don’t give up! There are many amazing houseplants that are exceptionally easy to look after. Here is a list of plants that are just about guaranteed to thrive in your home:
Succulents
Succulents are fascinating plants that are great for windowsills, desks, or just about any spot that gets lots of light. Succulents are able to store water in their leaves, much like a cactus in a desert. This makes them able to survive with little water. Plant owners only need to water this plant once a month. However, succulents love the sunshine, making a windowsill the perfect place for them to grow.
Fun Fact: You don’t have to stick to the colour green. With over 60 varieties, succulents have a range of colours and textures available.
Snake plant
As the name suggests, a snake plant looks like green snakes coming up from the ground. This plant does not give up easily either. It is able to survive for weeks without water, but most experts recommend watering once a week. A snake plant can survive in sun or shade, making it the perfect plant to care for all year long.
Fun Fact: Snake plants are nocturnal and purifying. This means that while you sleep, this plant will be working to clear the air of toxins.
Aloe vera
This plant looks beautiful in a home and also has healing properties. Aloe vera have lengthy leaves with white detailing that look almost like teeth. The plant does well in both direct and indirect sunlight, although less sun makes the leaves grow longer and thinner. Aloe plants are more delicate with water. When planting, make sure to leave the plant for a week without watering so their roots can establish. Then, water enough so the soil is moist but not wet. Too much water will rot the roots!
Fun Fact: Aloe has many healing properties. You can cut off an aloe leaf and slice it down the middle. This will reveal the gel that can be scraped out and applied directly on a mild sunburn to help with healing.
Peace lily
Peace lilies are a unique houseplant to have. The amount of light they get will determine the colour of their leaves. In lower light their leaves will remain a classic green. To get the peace lily’s signature white leaves, the average light found in an office with well-lit windows is suffice. Make sure the soil is completely dry before watering, since peace lilies do not like to be overwatered.
Fun Fact: Peace lilies are also known as closet plants since they are so popular for indoor growing.
Monstera
If you’re looking for a large plant to fill your space, a monstera is a perfect pick. The plant produces full, lush leaves. It is the ideal plant for a corner beside a window, as they like indirect sunlight. It is best to sit them outside on a sunny day at least once a year, since this encourages better growth. This plant doesn’t do well when overwatered, so it is best to wait until the soil is on the drier side.
Fun Fact: This plant is also known as a Swiss cheese plant because of the holes in the leaves.
Pothos
Pothos plants are great if you don’t have floor space but want some greenery. As the stems grow, they droop and create a beautiful weeping willow effect when placed in a hanging pot. Pothos are sensitive to light and prefer something less direct. The interesting thing about this plant is that it can be fully grown in water or in dry soil, but the planter must choose one. A pothos that was started in water will have a very hard time growing in dirt and vice versa.
Orchid
Orchid have a bit of a reputation for being hard to grow and maintain, but they actually make amazing house plants. They thrive in humid areas but prefer watering only once per week.
They are most successfully grown in bright but indirect light. Placing it near a window would be best. There are specific soil mixes for orchids that are highly recommended for the longevity of your plant. This is a tougher house plant to manage but will look amazing in your home.
Fun Fact: Don’t worry if the flowers fall off — hey will rebloom from the bulb of the plant by cutting down the stem. If treated well, orchids can outlive their gardener!
Credit: By Gail Pope
Journalism Intern, Landscape Ontario
A perennial is a herbaceous (soft and fleshy) plant that thrives for three or more years. Perennials come in a variety of sizes, shapes and colours and can bloom from early April until late October. For these reasons, they are fast becoming more popular. Perennials are one of the easiest plants to grow. Sun or shade, clay or loam, there is a perennial for almost all of your garden needs.
Planning is an essential part of having a perennial garden. Gardens that are not planned usually have no direction and often are a jumble of colour.
When planning a garden, many factors determine the shape of your garden; from which angle you will view your garden; whether the garden will be informal or formal, and the type of planting (bed or border) you want.
Once the beds and type of garden are decided then its time to choose the types of plants you need. Some factors to consider are light and soil requirements, plant height, time and length of flower, and flower colour. Other factors may be plant fragrance, suitability of plants for fresh cut or dried flowers, and the plants form and texture.
Once all the factors are considered, then it is time to lay out your garden on paper. From a detailed plan, one can see how the garden will look.
Bed preparation is one of the most important aspects in having a successful perennial garden. First, the bed should be dug to a depth of one foot. Next, one should decide what type of soil you have.
For clay soils, 10 to 15 cm of sand and peat moss should be added so the soil can drain properly. Adding gypsum (11 kg per 100 sq. ft.) helps break down the clay. If necessary, garden sulphur can be added to lower the acidity of the soil.
For sandy soils, add 10 to 15 cm of organic material (peat moss, manure, compost) to the soil to hold the moisture in the ground. When adding an organic material, also add a high-nitrogen fertilizer (urea 33-0-0) to help the material break down.
For peaty soils, add horticultural lime to raise the alkalinity of the soil, if necessary.
Finally, an all purpose fertilizer should be worked into the soil. A top dressing of mulch will keep the moisture in and the weeds out.
Planting perennials is a simple task, but the importance should not be overlooked.
There are two stages (dormant and active) in which perennials can be planted. Dormant plants are usually planted in the fall and active plants in the spring and summer.
Planting is a simple task. With a trowel, dig a hole slightly larger than the container in which the plant came. Place the plant in the hole at the same depth as the container (Remember to remove the container). Once in, firm the soil around the plants. Plants should then be watered in with a transplant fertilizer (high in phosphorous).
Perennials are relatively easy to care for, but they are not maintenance free. Watering, fertilizing, mulching and dividing are some of the tasks involved with the care of perennials.
Fertilizing should be done three times per year (spring, summer and fall) with an all-purpose granular fertilizer. Some perennials need more nutrients during the year and a water soluble general fertilizer should be applied. Watering of newly planted perennials should be done on a regular basis. More established plants should be watered only when there is a dry spell.
Bark, cocoa bean, needle and leaf mulches are some of the mulches used to cover perennials for the winter. Mulching can increase the survival rate of plants through the winter. Mulches provide a weed barrier as well as keeping moisture in the ground.
The dividing of plants is done for three reasons: to control size, to rejuvenate plants, and for the propagation of plants. Dividing is done in the spring and summer. When dividing in the spring, just divide those varieties that bloom in the summer and fall. Only those varieties which bloom in the spring should be divided in the summer.
A perennial garden can provide the homeowner with much enjoyment. Cut and dried flowers, perfumed scents and blooms from April to October are some of the rewards of growing perennials. With a little effort, one can enjoy a garden that blooms and grows for many years.
Hosta
Coneflower
Delphinium
Blanket Flower
Columbine
The following is a comprehensive list of the most popular perennials. This list is arranged in alphabetical order, according to genus. Use the information provided, to plan your garden.
Plant Name |
Bloom Colour |
Pant Size |
Bloom Period |
Exposure |
Comments |
Achillea (Yarrow) |
Yellow-gold |
Any |
Mid-Late Summer |
Full Sun |
Well drained soil, may require staking |
Alyssum (Basket of Gold) |
Yellow |
Low |
Early Summer |
Partial Sun |
Well drained soil, divide in spring |
Aquilegia (Columbine) |
Blue Purple Yellow |
Medium |
Late Spring - Mid Summer |
Sun/Shade |
Well drained soil, divide late summer |
Armeria (Thrift) |
Purple Rose |
Low |
Late Spring - Mid Summer |
Full Sun |
Dry, infertile soil, divide every 4 years |
Artemisia (Silvermound) |
Silver Foliage |
Low |
Full Sun |
Will adapt to poor soil conditions |
|
Aster |
Rose Violet Pink |
Medium |
Late Summer |
Full Sun |
Water generously in well drained soil |
Astilbe |
Pink Red White |
Medium |
Summer |
Partial Sun |
Moist, fertile, organic soil |
Convallaria (Lily of the Valley( |
White |
Low |
Spring |
Sun/Shade |
Berries are poisonous |
Chrysanthemum Maximum (Shasta Daisy) |
White |
Medium |
Summer |
Partial Sun |
Fertile soil, divide every-other spring |
Chrysanthemum (Hardy Mums) |
Red Yellow Bronze |
Medium |
Fall |
Partial Sun |
Well drained moist soil, may transplant in fall |
Delphinium |
Pink White Blue |
Tall |
Summer |
Full Sun |
May require staking, cut back flowers after flowering |
Dianthus (Carnation) |
Pink Red Rose White Yellow |
Medium |
Late Spring - Summer |
Full Sun |
Well drained alkaline soil |
Dicentra (Bleeding Heart) |
Pink to Fuscia |
Medium |
Late Spring - Late Summer |
Partial Sun |
Fertile soil, divide in spring or fall |
Gaillardia (Blanket Flower) |
Red Orange Yellow |
Medium |
Summer |
Full Sun |
Light, well drained soil, divide in spring |
Gypsophila (Baby's Breath) |
White |
Any |
Mid Summer |
Partial Sun |
Well Drained, low nutrient, high pH soil |
Hemerocallis (Day Lily) |
Yellow Cream Bronze Pink |
Medium |
Late Spring |
Partial Sun |
Well drained organic soil, divide every 4 to 6 years |
Hollyhock |
Pink White Red |
Tall |
Late Summer |
Full Sun |
Well drained soil, may require staking |
Hosta (Plantain Lily) |
Lavender White |
Medium |
Summer |
Partial Sun |
Organic Soil |
Iris |
Assorted |
Low |
Spring - Mid Summer |
Full Sun |
Divide rhizomes after flowering |
Lillium (Lily) |
Assorted |
Tall |
Summer |
Partial Sun |
Fertile soil |
Lupimus (Lupine) |
Assorted |
Medium |
Spring |
Partial Sun |
Cool, moist areas, acidic soil |
Paeonia (Peony) |
Assorted |
Medium |
Spring |
Full Sun |
Shade inhibits flowering, establishment time, 3 years |
Papaver (Oriental Poppy) |
Scarlet Salmon |
Medium |
Early Spring |
Full Sun |
Well drained soil, difficult to transplant |
Phlox Paniculata (Garden Phlox) |
Assorted |
Low/ |
Summer |
Partial Sun |
Require fertilizing with Superphosphate or Bonemeal, divide in fall |
Platycodon (Balloon Flowers) |
Blue |
Medium |
Summer |
Partial Sun |
Will not tolerate wet soil, does not transplant well, requires staking. |
Primula (Primrose) |
Assorted |
Low/ |
Spring |
Partial Sun |
Cool, moist, organic soil |
Rudbeckia (Cone Flower) |
Yellow Gold |
Medium |
Summer |
Partial Sun |
Easy to grow |
Landscape Ontario Horticultural Trades Association represents the leading garden centres in Ontario. As one of the select garden centres which has achieved “Approved Member” status, we assure our customers receive a high level of service, a good range of quality plants and associated products, together with professional advice and information.
]]>Pruning is an essential part of gardening. Correctly pruned trees, shrubs and evergreens will be superior in appearance, vigour and in flowering to neglected plants.
PRUNING TOOLS
HAND HELD PRUNING SHEARS:
Use for cutting stems up to13 mm in diameter. Scissor types(illustrated) cut closer than anvil types,which can crush bark if they are not very sharp.
HEDGE SHEARS:
Use for trimming formal hedges when a neat wall of foliage is the goal.
LOPPING SHEARS:
Their long handles provide extra leverage, making lopping shears capable of cutting through stems up to 38 mm in diameter.
TOOLS REQUIRED
PRUNING EVERGREENS
Pyramidal Cedars and Junipers may be lightly pruned in early spring to remove any winter-killed tips. By mid-June, it should be apparent that shearing is needed again as the warmer weather produces a rush of growth.
Clip them with hedge shears just like a hedge. No upright evergreen should ever be allowed to outgrow its place in the garden. Spreading evergreens can be similarly sheared or thinned by removing individual branches. Make the cut under an overhanging branch and the pruning will be unseen.
PRUNING CONIFERS
Spruce and Fir produce buds along the branch. New growth should be removed by about half in the third week of June. This provokes dormant buds to break, creates denser foliage and new buds will be set at the cut. The ‘leader’ of such trees can become disproportionally long and should be cut – at this time. Do not cut below the lowest bud or the leader will die back. Pines do not have buds along the stem, only on the tips. As these buds enlarge in the spring, they are likened to candles. Half of this growth should be removed each year, before the end of June.
PRUNING FLOWERING VINES AND SHRUBS
These spring flowering shrubs should be pruned immediately after flowering: Caragana,Deutzia, Forsythia, Flowering Almond, Lilac, Purpleleaf Sandcherry, Rhododendron. In the case of Lilac and Rhododendron, even if pruning for size is not required, at least remove the spent flowers and prevent the plant from setting seed. This will make them more floriferous next year.
Summer flowering shrubs should be pruned in early spring before growth begins, then pruned again to remove spent flowers. These include Roses, pink Spireas, Potentilla, Butterfly Bush, Blue Mist Shrub and Hydrangea.
Bittersweet Vine and shrubs with attractive fruit or berries, some roses, cranberries, etc., offer no best time for pruning. If pruning is required, then do so after flowering, or make use of the decorative berries indoors by cutting the fruited branches ñ Holly berries at Christmas, for example.
Most flowering vines Clematis, Honeysuckle, Silverlace Vine, etc. are extremely vigorous and should be pruned in early spring. Some Clematis, Nelly Moser and Duchess of Edinburgh are examples that flower on old wood, then flower again on new growth. If the vine is overgrown, you may have to forgo early blossom in some years.
Should you have any problems or questions concerning your plant material, please call us! We look forward to serving you in the future.
Landscape Ontario Horticultural Trades Association represents the leading garden centres in Ontario. As one of the select garden centres which has achieved
“Approved Member” status, we assure our customers receive a high level of service, a good range of quality plants and associated products, together with professional advice and information.
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Beautiful gardens are designed to be enjoyed. However, sometimes it can feel like the maintenance, watering, pruning, and fertilizing, leaves little time to simply sit back and smell the flowers. One simple way to reduce the amount of maintenance is to choose a well-drained area in your property to plant a drought tolerant garden. These low maintenance gardens are ideal for cottages, large properties, and for gardeners who want to cut back on the amount of water they use in the summer.
What is a Drought Tolerant Garden?
Put simply, drought tolerance means that adding in specific plants that can survive, and sometimes even thrive, with less water. This doesn’t mean that the plants don’t require any water. However, they use the water more efficiently which means less watering for you.
The Secret is in the Roots
Plants get all of their nourishment including their water, through their roots. So, the healthier the root system is the more resilient the plants will be. To get healthy roots, you need to create a well-drained area with soil that is full of nutrients. This will help develop a root system that expands deep into the soil making it easier to find the nutrients the plants need to stay healthy.
So, if you’re wanting to create a drought tolerant garden, begin with the soil. This includes adding compost, peat moss , and manure to develop an area that is rich in nutrients. Products like Garden Gallery’s Organic Tri-Mix help create the ideal growing medium.
The next step is watering. Creating a drought tolerant garden includes changing how you water, so put away that sprinkler. Instead, water your plants well and right at the roots so that it seeps into the soil. This technique is the secret behind growing healthy deep roots allowing you to stretch the time between each watering.
Choose Plants that Prefer Drier Areas
If you want to water less, you need to choose plants that can naturally sustain lower levels of water. Thankfully, there is no shortage of choices. Ornamental grasses, succulents, and a selection of perennials and shrubs tend to do well in cottage gardens or the spots in your home which tend to be a bit drier.
Here are just a few varieties to choose from:
Lavender:
This drought tolerant perennial will immediately fill your garden with scent and colour. Known for its delicate purple blooms, this sun loving plant does well as a border in the centre of the garden.
Thyme:
Add some function to your full sun garden with this fragrant kitchen herb. Originally from the Mediterranean region, the flowers of this perennial are the perfect addition to your pollinator garden.
Hosta:
If you have a shaded area, then Hosta is the drought tolerant perennial for you. Known for its dramatic foliage, hosta does well in indirect light, and only needs a little bit of water to thrive.
Sedum:
Available as a ground cover or upright perennial, sedum will add texture and colour to your sun loving garden with its thick succulent looking leaves and bright coloured flowers.
Hens and Chicks:
Perfect for a rock garden or dry area on your property, this perennial succulent is a delightful addition. Plant in full sun and enjoy its distinct rosette shaped pattern and cluster of smaller rosettes that sprout around the mother plant.
Yarrow:
This hardy perennial is the perfect addition to a drought tolerant pollinator garden immediately filling a sunny spot with its bright, tightly packed flowers.
Echinacea:
This sun loving flower will immediately attract bees and butterflies with its bright daisy like petals. Its tall stocks make the perfect background perennial in your drought tolerant garden.
Nine Bark:
This fast growing shrub thrives in a well-drained sunny spot in your yard, making it the perfect addition for hedges or to even prevent erosions. The plant flowers in late spring with either pink or white blooms, which bear fruit in late summer and autumn which will often bring birds to your garden.
Burning Bush:
Known for its bright red foliage, this low maintenance shrub is a welcome addition to drought tolerant gardens. Available in both a dwarf variety, which grows approximately 5 feet, and a full size version which can reaching upwards to 15 feet.
Honeysuckle:
The heat tolerant honeysuckle will immediately draw wildlife to your yard with its sweet smelling blooms. Available as either a vine or shrub, this plant thrives with minimal watering and pruning.
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One of the most common problems with shade in the garden, IS THE LACK OF IT!
In a new home, in a new subdivision, where can you grow lush leafy ferns, Astilbes and Hosta? There are so many plants that actually LIKE SHADE! If you can create a garden in the shaded north side of your home, then you can enjoy a broad range of plants that thrive in shade.
ALL SHADE IS NOT THE SAME
PART SUN – PART SHADE
At our latitude in summer, even the north side of the house gets sun. Rising in the far north-east in the morning, it catches the north side and again from the northwest as it sets. Plants on the east and west side get at least six hours of sun in the summer, sufficient for all plants except the true sun worshippers.
DRY SHADE AND MOIST SHADE
Deep shade is often moist since it does not receive the sun’s heat, but it can be dry under large trees that take all available moisture. There are very many plants for moist shade; dry shade is more difficult but the problem can be overcome by watering and mulching. A good perennial for dry shade is Barrenwort (Epimedium).
OPEN SHADE
On the north side of the house, but open to the sky. Plants listed for light shade will do well.
MEDIUM SHADE
The north side of the house, further obstructed by overhead branches. A shade-tolerant lawn grass will still grow and now we can plant Astilbe and Hosta.
LIGHT SHADE OR FILTERED SUNLIGHT
Dappled shade; light or shadow move with the sun, like under a Birch. Lawn grass does well and so do most plants. Not shady enough for true shade lovers.
DEEP SHADE
Permanent year-round shade from buildings and large evergreens and shade trees. Usually found in the older residential areas. Grass will not grow well, but ferns will. (In the plant list, those for deep shade are indicated “*”)
All shade is not the same. Deep shade is usually found in older gardens where trees are mature. In deep shade, the soil will usually be cool and moist ñ perfect conditions for Ferns and Hosta.
HOSTA
The large-leaved Hosta are luxurious in shade, some with glossy, dark green foliage, others are variegated green and white or green and gold. They all have attractive lily-like flowers mostly in shades of blue. One very nice variety is Royal Standard, with dark green leaves and fragrant white flowers.
ASTILBE
Astilbe are the most beautiful plants for shade with their gorgeous plumes of red, pink or white flowers in June and very attractive spring foliage that remains green and handsome all summer – as long as the soil is moist. Hosta, Ferns and colourful Astilbes will make a very attractive show in combination and are long-lived perennials for a garden in the shade.
FERN
Ferns are easy-to-grow, maintenance-free plants that mostly need or prefer cool, moist shade. As ferns become popular, an increasing number of varieties are appearing at garden centres. Ostrich Fern, Lady Fern and Sensitive Fern have long been favourites.
JAPANESE PAINTED FERN
Now available is Japanese Painted Fern, with blue-gray fronds, and colourful Autumn Fern with young coppery foliage. The Christmas Fern and Holly Ferns are evergreen.
PERENNIALS FOR LIGHT SHADE OR PART DAY SUN
(Those that take deep shade are marked with “*”)
PERENNIAL GROUND COVER FOR SHADE
When it comes to pollinators, there is nothing more fascinating than the hummingbird. This tiny creature flits through spaces quickly and is gone in the blink of an eye. Attracting these stunning species to your home may feel like a bit of a mystery. These little birds are seeking a specific environment which thankfully is simple to replicate.
If you’re looking to attract more hummingbirds into your space, look no further. This blog will provide three steps on how to attract these beautiful almost magical birds to your space.
Step 1: Choose The Environment
Pollinators love bright spaces with lots of flowers. However, hummingbirds in particular are looking for specific types of plants. These hovering beauties are drawn to flowers that are tubular, making it easy for them to zoom in for a quick feed. Begin by choosing a few full sun to partial sun locations to transform into a pollinators’ paradise.
Step 2: Provide them Sources of Energy
It takes a lot of energy to maintain a wing speed of 80 times per second. In fact, their metabolism is one of the highest of any animal on Earth, with heart rates up to 1260 beats and 250 breaths a minute. To help keep up with the demands for their metabolism, they need a lot of fuel. These hovering species thrive on nectar, especially in the summer, when they need to add on at least 40% of their body weight to aid them with their migration.
Unlike humans, hummingbirds use sugar throughout their body, pumping it throughout their blood vessels and into their muscles. However, it’s hard to keep that energy level up. To help them out, add hummingbird feeders into your space fueled with Hummingbird food. Garden Gallery has a wide range of feeders that are bright coloured with tubular openings which are specifically designed to attract hummingbirds. Place these feeders near your pollinator garden to show that your home is a welcoming space.
Step 3: Keep Hummingbirds Happy with these Five Plants
When creating a hummingbird garden, try to select a variety of bright coloured flowers so that these birds will be able to find nectar and insects throughout the season. These five plants are the perfect choice for these somewhat picky pollinators.
Weigela:
This spring-flowering plant will immediately draw pollinators to your space with their bright, tubular flowers. Dwarf varieties are ideal for small spaces, while the taller options are the perfect nesting ground for birds. Available in bright pink, red, and orange blossoms, these gorgeous plants are the perfect addition to your hummingbird haven.
Trumpet Vine
If you’re looking for a summer to early fall blooming plant, then the trumpet vine is the ideal addition to your landscape. These large tubular flowers come in a stunning range of colour, including yellow, orange, and brilliant red. Trumpet vines are tender in our area so after treated as an annual, but can grow anywhere from 30 to 40 feet in one season, quickly filling a space. Frequent pruning is highly recommended to help keep this vine under control.
Fuchsia
Named for its brightly hued flowers, fuchsias are a hummingbird favourite. Add them to hanging baskets, planters, and gardens in a partial-sun spot. For abundant flowers all season long, clip the branches after they’ve finished blooming.
Honeysuckle
Sweet and fragrant honeysuckles will draw in a variety of wildlife into your garden space. This heat-tolerant vine comes in over 180 different varieties making it easy to find the perfect addition for your landscape.
Mandevilla:
Add a hint of the tropics to your outdoor living space with the bountiful blooms of a mandevilla. The bright coloured flowers prefer bright, indirect light making them the ideal vine for the partial-sun spot in your landscape. Place your mandevilla on the patio in a large planter and watch as your favourite pollinators become a part of this tropical paradise!
Hummingbirds are not only fun to watch; they are an essential part of our Ontario ecosystem. Following these three simple steps will quickly transform your environment into a spot where these hovering beauties will thrive.
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Shade gardens offer a place of refuge during those hot summer days. These spaces naturally attract plants in cooler tones (think blue, purple, and green) creating a space that is designed for relaxation. The secret to success is choosing the perennials, evergreens, and annuals that thrive in these lower-light spaces.
So, what is shade anyway?
First a bit of clarity, shade is not darkness. All plants need sunlight to grow, however, the level that they need will vary depending on the variety.
Shade is defined as any area in your garden that gets less than 4 hours of direct sunlight a day. Plants that prefer this lower level of light, often tend to like either morning or late afternoon sunlight as it tends to be a bit cooler.
Why Does Knowing the Light Level of Plants Matter?
Unlike animals, plants are stationary which means that over thousands of years they’ve developed strategies to ensure that they are healthy. However, to tap into these strengths, you need to plant them in an environment that mimics their natural one and they will thrive.
On the flip side, if you plant a sun-loving plant in the shade or a shade-loving plant in the sun, it may struggle making it more prone to pests and disease. Placing plants in their preferred light conditions sets them up for success.
One of the easiest ways to know the preferred light level of the plant is to check an online plant guide or with your local garden centre. As a general rule, if the plant has bright yellow, orange, or red in its leaves or flowers, it is most likely a sun lover. However, there are always exceptions to the rule, the bright blooms of Astilbe, for example, will burn in the sun.
Five of our Favourite Shade Lovers:
Available in a wide range of varieties including shrubs, vines and even trees, the colourful blooms of hydrangea will fill your shade garden with colour and fragrance. These resilient, low maintenance shrubs don’t even mind the cold, in fact, some varieties are rated as a zone 3.
Add texture and a bit of drama to your shade bed with the feathery, lengthy, bloom of Astilbe. Available in a range of colours including bright red and pastel pink, this perennial will fill your garden with its beautiful bloom all summer long.
Known for their dramatic foliage, hostas are a beautiful addition to any perennial shade garden. These plants prefer rich, moist soil, products like Garden Gallery’s Organic Triple Mix, can be added to provide the nutrient-dense soil that these plants love. Although they do bloom, it is the beautiful tones and variegation of their foliage that make them one of the top perennials for Ontario shade gardens. For best results: plant variegated hostas in areas with filtered sunlight as the lighter tones do require a bit more sunlight.
If you’ve wandered through any forest, you will notice ferns peeking in almost every corner and for good reason. This delicate looking species of plants love popping up in darker corners, which makes them a natural addition to any shade garden. These easy to grow plants prefer rich, moist soil similar to what you find on the ground of your local forest. When choosing your fern, double check the zone. Zone 4 or lower are ideal if you’re looking for a fern that will return year after year.
Evergreens add year-round foliage making them a garden favourite. Japanese and Hick Yews are two varieties that will grow well in indirect sunlight, making them the perfect addition if you’re looking to add a hedge or a bit of height to your garden. These easy to grow shrubs are known for their small needles and bright red berries.
]]>Do you love your outdoor space? We spend a lot of time making our lawns and gardens exactly the way that we want them. However, when all that hard work is done, you need a space to sit back and enjoy it. We eat, lounge, socialize and even work in these spaces, but the design is often left as an afterthought. It’s time to rethink the patio and discover how a few accessories can transform your space into an extension of your home!
Functional Designs
You can’t have a conversation about creating a space outdoors without talking about furniture. The materials used in outdoor furniture are designed to withstand the wear and tear from weather including rain, wind, and sun. However, today’s manufacturers believe that you shouldn’t have to compromise design for functionality, which is why these sets often include comfortable, cushiony seating and aesthetic designs.
Patio furniture is an investment. Why not maximize this investment by choosing a set that has dual usage? Sofa sets like the Monaco offer a coffee table at a dining height making it easy to use the set for both lounging and mealtime. Add a bit of wow to your living space by choosing a set that mirrors a cozy family room including outdoor couches and loungers.
The Windsor Dining Set offers you an outdoor collection including 6 dining chairs, and round dining table with lazy susan. This will instantly transform your outdoor space into a functional seating room.
Take your morning coffee outdoors by adding in a charming bistro set to a covered porch or an unused corner on your deck. These smaller sets are ideal for balconies or to add a second seating area to a larger space.
Dress up your Space
Outdoor carpets have become a designer’s dream with their extensive range of patterns and colours. These beauties instantly transform a deck into an outdoor room by adding colour and design to your space. Available in traditional rectangular or round, add one or a few to your outdoor space for a pop of personality. As an added benefit, mats provide you with a palette that you can apply to the other accessories in your outdoor setting including pots, place settings, umbrellas, and of course, outdoor cushions.
Just like your indoor spaces, cushions are a great way to add a pop of personality to your outdoor room. Outdoor cushions are now available in several colours and designs making it easy to find the ones that are perfect for your home.
When designing your outdoor living space, don’t forget about the accessories. In fact, garden accessories can be strategically used to divide the area into different experiences. Strategically placing bird feeders and bird baths near a bistro set or lounge chair, for example, will instantly transform the area into a bird watchers paradise.
Adding in water features like patio ponds and outdoor fountains will beautifully transform the space with the relaxing sound of water. These products are available in a range of styles and sizes, making it easy to discover the one that is best for your space.
Create an Outdoor Office Space
Are you working from home? Privacy screens make it easy to take your office outdoors by instantly transforming part of your outdoor space into a private nook. Expandable screens with everlasting greenery add an instant element of serenity to your space. These are perfect for an outdoor office space, meditation, yoga, or to create a quiet nook to read your favourite book.
Take on the Night
Creating an outdoor room is an investment, so why not maximize it by adding in accessories that will transform the space from day to night?
Music and lighting instantly provide that evening atmosphere. The key is finding creative ways to integrate these into your spaces without compromising the overall design. One of our favourite ways to do this is with umbrella lights.
Umbrellas provide the perfect nook to hide lights and speakers. If you’re looking for lighting, then Halo is the perfect addition. This umbrella light includes 26 Led lights and 6 hours of battery life, beautifully transitioning your space from day to night. Or ramp up the atmosphere with Luna, the outdoor umbrella light (16 LED lights) that also includes a Bluetooth speaker.
Finalize your lighting design by strategically placing solar lights throughout your outdoor plants and patio décor. Choose from traditional lights or add in a few artistic pieces including plant stakes, windchimes, and solar baths that incorporate solar lights into their design.
The beauty of your outdoor living space is that it is easy to create an environment that fits the personality of your household. It is about taking a moment to decide on the purpose of the space and then having fun exploring the accessories that will help bring that atmosphere to life.
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Do you want to know the secret of healthy plants? It’s simple. All plants need three things to grow well: sunlight, water, and nutrients. Each of these items work together to help your plants grow healthy and strong.
Check the Light Level
Sunlight is essential for plants to grow well. All plants use light for photosynthesis, which is the process that gives your plants the energy that they need to grow. However, the amount of sunlight a plant needs varies from species to species. This is why it’s so important to place your trees, shrubs, annuals, and perennials in their recommended light location. Too much or too little sunlight can place stress on your plant making it challenging for them to fight disease or insects.
Sunlight Guideline:
Shade= Less than Four Hours. (morning or late afternoon sun is best)
Partial Sun= Four to Six Hours
Full Sun= Six or More Hours of direct sunlight
Not all Soil is Alike
Plants get the majority of their nourishment (water and nutrients) through their roots. This is why it’s so important to plant in the right foundation including healthy, nutrient- rich soil. Products like Garden Gallery’s Organic Triple Mix provides your plants, trees, and shrubs, with the perfect combination including rich black earth, composted manures, and composts. If you’re planting in a container, look for a mixture high in peat moss (to help retain moisture) or a soilless mixture, like Garden Gallery Organic Container Mixture so that the roots have a healthy space to grow in. For best results, add a new layer of soil (two to three inches) each year so that your roots get a fresh boost of nutrients.
Just Add Water
Did you know that water carries nutrients throughout the plant providing each part with the energy that it needs? This is why plants may droop or wilt when they are water deprived. They truly do not have enough strength to stay upright!
Tips for Successful Watering:
Feed your Plants
Adding nutrient rich soil starts your plants off to a great start, but it doesn’t take long, for these nutrients to be absorbed by the plants. To keep your plants healthy provide them with a regular supply of nutrients. Here’s a quick guide on just a few of the nutrient mixes that are available to feed your plants.
Garden Gallery Plant Starter:
Moving plants from one space to another can be stressful. To help your plants cope with this stress use a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus, like Garden Gallery’s Plant Starter. This water-soluble fertilizer will help new plants and existing plants develop a strong and healthy root system.
Garden Gallery Bone Meal
Unlike water soluble fertilizers, bone meal will break down in the soil over time providing your plants with a steady supply of phosphorus. Use this natural fertilizer before planting to provide the roots with additional phosphorus and calcium and to grow beautiful blooms.
Garden Gallery Blood and Bone Meal
A natural source of phosphorus and nitrogen, Garden Gallery’s Blood and Bone Meal will boost the nutrient level in your garden. Blood meal is also a natural squirrel deterrent. Use for trees, shrubs, perennial beds, and bulbs.
Garden Gallery Flower Gro
Equipped with iron and micronutrients, Garden Gallery Flower Gro will provide your plants with the energy that they need to grow beautiful blooms and fresh produce. Use this highly concentrated, water soluble fertilizer in your annual and vegetable garden.
Garden Gallery Green Gro
If you’re wanting lush, green gardens, then Garden Gallery Green Gro might be the nutrient boost that your plants need. This water-soluble fertilizer provides tropicals and foliage plants with the nitrogen that they need to produce chlorophyll (what makes the plant green) throughout the plant.
Garden Gallery All Gro
This multipurpose concentrated fertilizer will provide your garden with an equal balance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash. All Gro is recommended for foliage plants including indoor tropicals, trees, and shrubs.
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Container gardens are a great way to dress up a patio or doorway. But it’s so much more than that. These miniature gardens are an opportunity to experiment with gardening trends, explore new flowers, or simply showcase a few favourites.
The Basics:
There are five steps for a successful container garden.
Time to Plant
It’s time to reveal the not-so-secret formula for a successful container garden: Thriller, Spillers, and Fillers. This simple technique is a fool proof way to create beautiful containers.
The Thriller:
The thriller is the star of the show. It is the plant or plants that are taller and a bit bolder than the rest. Since the thriller is the focal point, this should be the first plant that you choose for your container. Thrillers can either be planted in the centre with the other plants surrounding it or in the back for a more modern take on container gardens. Whichever design method you choose, make sure that your thriller can be seen from all angles.
Recommended thrillers: Calla lilies, canna lilies, hibiscus, ornamental grasses Angelonia, snapdragons, delphiniums, rosemary, lavender, and kale.
The Filler:
If the thriller is the star of the show, the fillers are the adoring audience. These plants play an essential role in your container garden beautifully filling in the gaps with their foliage and flowers. When choosing your filler, pick one to three varieties that complement the thriller plant. Just remember, too many varieties will draw your attention away from the star.
Recommended fillers: petunia, geraniums, impatiens, lobelia, euphorbia, calibrachoa, alyssum, celosia, marigold, mint, basil,
Spillers:
Just like the word, these plants are deliberately chosen for their ability to spill out of the container. When planting spillers, place them near the edge of the container so that they can easily flow over. These plants can be placed around the entire container or at every angle that the container will be looked at.
Recommended spillers: trailing lobelia, bacopa, sweet potato vine and creeping thyme.
Now that you have the formula, here are some design trends that can help you narrow down your selection.
Magnificent Monochrome
This year it’s all about simplicity and uniform design, and there is nothing more elegant than monochrome. It’s about picking one colour and sticking with it. So, your thrillers, fillers, and spillers, may be different plant varieties but they are brought together through colour. The result is a nuanced container where the textures in each variety can be appreciated.
Aesthetic Edibles
Function and aesthetics come together with this container garden focused on edibles. This trend is ideal if you have limited space or if you simply like the textured look of the foliage. Kale, swiss chard, lemongrass, lavender, and thyme, are all great choices to add texture and fragrance to any container. Enjoy them on their own or mix them in with your annuals.
For the Bees
This design is focused on the pollinators by bringing together a variety of plants that will attract hummingbirds, butterflies and bees. Cosmos, petunias, lantana, calendula, and calibrachoa are just a few of the annuals that will help bring pollinators to your space.
Moon Gardens
Silver and white flowers are beautiful on their own, but when brought together, these plants seem to glow. This dramatic effect is perfect for those spaces that you tend to enjoy in the early morning and evening. For added impact, add in a night-blooming flower to the mix.
Mix and Match
The only rule for this trend is that there are no rules. So be creative, and have fun exploring a variety of plant combinations. Mix annuals, perennials, and tropical plants together, throw in some herbs, or add in some vegetables-the only limitation is your imagination.
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Breakfast Made for a Queen
Most moms love telling the story of the homemade breakfasts, especially when the kids get involved. This year why not take breakfast in bed one step further by adding a beautiful potted plant or everlasting flowers. At Garden Gallery, we have all of your mom’s favourites:.all that’s left to do is choose!
Doorway Decor
Add a little delight to your Mother’s Day by decorating her doorway! Add a banner, balloons or streamers to celebrate the special day, and then top it off with a container garden full of her favourite flowers. We love (and we think Mom will too) the Welcome Planter planted with stunning geraniums.
Take a Journey Down Memory Lane
Mother’s Day is an opportunity to share stories and reflect on childhood adventures. Personalize your gift by choosing an item that captures those memories. Whether it’s a pair of gardening gloves and water cans (to help recreate mud pies), or a beautiful piece of artwork or statue, Garden Gallery’s line of children’s statuary are the perfect gift to help celebrate this special day both today and for years to come.
Colourful Containers
We know that children love to choose their presents, but the trick is finding a gift that mom’s and children will both enjoy. Garden Gallery makes this idea easy with a range of playful pots that pair beautifully with tropicals, Pansies or a fragrant herb. From ladybugs to our modern face pots, children will enjoy being able to pick the perfect container for their mom.
Light up her Life
Does your mom love to garden? Wonderful! Why not showcase all of that hard work into the evening hours with the artistically designed solar products from Solar Series? Solar lights are the perfect way to take your mom’s garden from day to night. However, Solar Series takes this one step further by encasing the lights in stunning garden accessories including birdbaths, windchimes and garden stakes, beautifully combining art and functionality. Choose your favourite or combine a few, to add light and art throughout her garden.
Say it with Style
Stylish, comfortable and a little bit practical, Garden Gallery’s range of sun hats are the perfect gift for mom. Available in a range of colours and styles, these hats are designed to protect mom from the harsh sun while also adding a little flair to her day.
Made with Love
Do you want something a little more homemade? We’ve got you covered. Clay pots provide the perfect template for a Mother’s Day craft. To make this craft all you need is a pot, paint, paintbrushes, and a bit of creativity. Painted handprints are a great way to get younger children involved in making a gift for mom. For older children, the pot can be used to paint a favourite picture, quote or thoughtful note.
Top it off with a Gerbera Daisy or Kalanchoes, the pop of colour can’t help to brighten her day.
This year make Mother’s Day extra special with gifts from the heart. It is about taking a moment to share stories, laughter, and love, and of course, celebrating with the ones that you love.
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Roses need full sun, at least six hours per day.
Large, many petalled, single or double flowers, usually alone and occasionally in clusters of three to five. Blooms are usually held singly on straight long stems that are good for cutting. Many are fragrant. Ideally used in formal rose beds. Always grafted, 60 to 125 cm tall.
The largest-blooming and showiest type. Flowers are large like the hybrid teas, but produced in cluster like the Floribundas. Vigorous and tall, from 100 to 200 cm. Always grafted.
Greatly under-valued and under-used. Modern shrub roses, derived in some cases from native roses that are free of disease and insect problems, are extremely hardy and require no special care. Some are as neat as Floribunda, with flowers as large as Hybrid Tea and many are fragrant. Include shrub roses in the border with lilac, forsythia, and mock orange. As an informal flowering hedge or privacy screen, they are unsurpassed. The bright red fruits of some varieties add colour in the fall and winter.
Blooms range from singles to fully double, produced in clusters. The blooming period is maintained throughout the year. Hardier than Hybrid Teas, although the flowers are smaller. Very showy when mass-planted in beds, or spot them through a foundation planting. 40 to 100 cm tall, usually grafted.
Sports or mutations of bush roses. The flowers may be single or double, of Hybrid Tea or Floribunda Type, according to parentage. The main shoots should be trained as horizontally as possible, resulting in the growth of lateral branches. These laterals will grow upward to provide height and cover and it is here the flowers will be produced.
As soon as thawing permits, take away the evergreen boughs or remove the rose collars. Somewhat later, remove the soil and rough prune by cutting winter-killed tips down to the live wood. When the yellow flowers of Forsythia are in bloom, your roses should be showing signs of life. The buds should be swelling and quite obvious but showing no leaves. At this time, cut out all dead stems, twiggy growth and retain only three or four strong canes at the most. Cut these down to about 15 cm and cut within 6 mm of an outward-facing bud.
Observe the arrangement of the leaves on the rose stem. Under the flower will probably be a single leaf and then sets of leaves with three leaflets and then a series of leaves with five leaflets. Do not simply remove the dead flower, but cut quite low in the stem to the five-leaflet leaves. This form of pruning in mid-summer results in strong, vigorous, fast replacement of new blossoms and is practiced by the cut flower rose trade. Remember to cut an outward-facing bud. The bud originates in the corner where the leaves emerge.
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First, make a list of all the vegetables your family enjoys (there is no use growing a vegetable if it won’t get eaten). Then, put a number beside each variety indicating the number of plants required to feed you and your family.
Find an area, which will receive at least five to six hours of direct sunlight daily. Take into consideration: the amount of space you have available (some vegetables need more growing room than others); your own requirements for canning, freezing or table use; local frost dates and climate conditions. For a longer harvest period, plant vegetables at staggered time intervals. Allocate part of your garden for small, rapid-maturing vegetables (such as radishes, lettuce, spinach). Keep tall vine or pole varieties from overshadowing smaller plants.
The following plants should be started from seed:
beans
beets
carrots
corn
peas
radishes
When growing plants from seed, follow the instructions on the seed pack.
Spade soil deeply. Loosen up heavy clay by adding peat moss and manure. Add 1 kg of garden fertilizer per 10 square metres. Turn the soil over again and rake smoothly.
Moisten soil before planting, allowing it to dry slightly until it is workable. Generally, plant seeds about three times as deep as their diameter. Cover small seeds with finely sifted compost, soil or vermiculite. Plants not in individual containers should be gently separated to retain as much soil around the roots as possible.
Vegetables are thirsty! Water them thoroughly with a mild fertilizer to give them a good start. Thereafter, water whenever the soil begins to dry. Water early in the day by soaking the soil. Do not just sprinkle the foliage with water.
Cultivate out weeds as soon as they appear. For easier weed pulling, moisten soil an hour before cultivating. When removing weeds, do not disturb the roots of the plants. Your vegetables may have problems with insects or disease. If they do, bring a sample of the problem to your closest garden centre and let one of our experienced nursery associates identify the problem.
ROMA TOMATOES / Harvest in 80 Days
FIELD TOMATOES / Harvest in 65 - 90 Days
WHITE SPANISH / Harvest in 100 Days
BROCCOLI / Harvest in 58 Days
Landscape Ontario Horticultural Trades Association represents the leading garden centres in Ontario. As one of the select garden centres which has achieved “Approved Member” status, we assure our customers receive a high level of service, a good range of quality plants and associated products, together with professional advice and information.
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It’s time to get growing! If you’re like us, that sunshine and warm spring weather make us a little antsy to get outdoors and begin planting. Although it’s still too early for annuals and most vegetables, there are a few crops that prefer cooler temperatures. For annuals, pansies continue to be a spring favourite. However, if you are wanting an edible garden; there are a lot of options available. In fact, now is the perfect time to plant fruit trees, raspberry and blueberry bushes, and cold-hardy vegetables.
The following is a guide on a few species that not only will survive the cooler months, these veggies actually prefer it.
Broccoli
High in iron, this hardy crop likes the temperature to be under 23 degrees Celsius (75 Fahrenheit). In fact, it tends to go to seed when the weather gets too hot. So, plant broccoli early for maximum harvests (yes, the same plant can produce up to three harvests). Did you know that each harvest of broccoli looks a little different? For the first harvest, broccoli produces a large centre head. However, once cut the broccoli will continue to produce smaller side heads for several weeks.
Pro Tip: For the best flavour, harvest the broccoli before it flowers. Once the flowers bloom the broccoli can become very bitter.
Brussel Sprouts
Add some intrigue to your vegetable garden by growing brussel sprouts. The delicious little cabbages grow along a thick 30-inch stalk creating almost a palm tree effect, with the leaves blooming at the top. If you are adding this vegetable to your garden, be patient, it can take about 80 days until they sprouts can be harvested. However, the taste of this freshly grown produce is well worth the wait.
Pro Tip: Harvest when the sprouts become the size of marbles.
Cabbage
Cabbage doesn’t’ like the heat, so get this crop into the ground (or your containers) early so that you can harvest it before those hot summer days. This crop prefers temperatures that range from 7 to 24 degrees Celcius and can even tolerate brief amounts of frost. Similar to broccoli, cabbage will go to seed once temperatures exceed 80 degrees. Its compact size makes it the perfect plant for both raised beds and containers.
Pro Tip: Garden Gallery Organic Container Soil is the perfect base to give your patio vegetables a great start.
Celery
Perfect for salads, soups or just something to crunch on, celery is an ideal cold-weather crop. One of the reasons that celery continues to be a fan favourite is for its high-water content. However, to get that crunchy consistency means making sure that celery gets a lot of water. Take advantage of the rainy spring weather, by planting your celery in the ground early.
Pro Tip: Did you know that young celery tastes just as good as the larger, older stalks? That’s not all, picking the stems often will actually help increase the amount of celery that the plant produces.
Cauliflower
Cauliflower is another cruciferous vegetable that prefers cooler temperatures. In fact, the best time to get this plant into the ground is about two to four weeks before that last spring frost. Harvest cauliflower when the head of the plant is approximately 6 to 8 inches in diameter.
Pro Tip: Although most cruciferous vegetables prefer cooler weather. Keep those frost blankets handy, and cover up your cauliflower, cabbage, broccoli kale if frost is in the air.
Kale
Kale doesn’t mind the chillier weather, in fact, a minor frost can actually sweeten the taste of the leaves. The compact size of this superfood makes it a great container vegetable. But that’s not all, its eye-catching foliage makes kale the perfect plant to pop right into your flower garden.
Pro Tip: The secret to harvesting kale successfully is to cut the outer leaves of the plant first. This technique will allow the smaller, younger leaves (near the centre) to keep growing.
Lettuce
If you’re just breaking into home growing, why not start with a few containers of lettuce? The shallow root system of plants in the lettuce family makes it the perfect patio plant. Did you know that lettuce seeds can germinate in temperatures as low as 4 degrees? However, its ideal climate is between 16 to 18 degrees, which makes late April the perfect time to get lettuce into the ground.
Pro Tip: Harvest the plant as a baby green by picking the younger leaves as it grows.
Onions
If you’re thinking of adding onions into your home-grown garden, get them into the ground early. Here’s why, the tops of onions grow in the cool weather and once the weather warms up, the plant will concentrate on growing the bulbs.
Pro Tip: Yellow onion tops is a tell-tale sign that the bulbs are almost ready to be harvested. When this happens, tilt the plant horizontally so that the plant defers all of its energy to help bring that bulb to maturity. Once the tops are brown (usually a day or two later), it’s time to harvest.
Potatoes
This sun-loving plant is comfortable with a bit of cooler weather, but that’s only one reason to plant spuds in the spring. Potatoes are a thirsty crop so planting them during the rainy season will help get them off to a good start. Harvest potatoes when the leaves turn yellow, usually 18 to 20 weeks after planting.
Pro Tip: If you don’t have the room in a raised bed, try them in a container. Yes, patio potatoes are possible just make sure to use a large pot with lots of drainage.
Give your new plants the best start by removing any weeds or old growth from both the gardens and containers. Then top it off with a new layer of soil so that the growing roots will have the nutrients and moisture that they need. Our preference for raised beds is Garden Gallery’s Organic Triple Mix and Garden Gallery’s Organic Container Mix for containers. Growing your own fruit and vegetables is not only a fun hobby, it’s healthier for you, the planet, and your wallet.
Enjoy!
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Bulbs can be used in nearly any garden or patio setting, giving you flowers, fragrance and brilliant colour with just a little effort. You will be amazed at what will grow from these little brown bulbs. Bigger is better when choosing tubers, corms or rhizomes. Energy for the initial spurt of Spring growth is stored in the bulb or tuber, so a larger bulb means more stored energy and a stronger, healthier plant.
Plant bulbs at the depth recommended on the label. A general rule is to plant bulbs at a depth three times the greater diameter of the bulb. Dig a hole and sprinkle fertilizer with a high middle number like bonemeal 2-14-0 in the bottom. Place the bulb in the hole with the pointed end up.
Cover the bulb with one inch of soil and water well. Fill in the rest of the hole with soil and water thoroughly. Do not water again until shoots begin to appear. A 5 cm layer of mulch on top of the bed will help prevent weeds and retain moisture. To improve clay-bearing soils, add sand, peat or compost to the top layer.
Keep the soil moist throughout the growing season. Use a recommended flower or bulb fertilizer, as well as bonemeal for continuous blooming.
Throughout the growing season, bulbs and tubers send manufactured food down into underground storage. This becomes stored energy for next year's growth. In cold winter areas, some spring bulbs must be dug up as winter approaches to save them for next year. Otherwise treat them as an annual. Discontinue watering two to three weeks before the first frost to encourage dormancy. Carefully dig up the bulbs after the first killing frost freezes the top growth. Be careful not to damage the bulb. Dry bulbs for a week in a dark, ventilated area. Dust with General Purpose Fungicide and store in an open paper bag or nylon stocking. Cover bulbs with dry peat moss or vermiculite so they do not touch one another. Bulbs are best stored at 10 to 15 oC.
1
Bulbs are underground stems with soft, scaly layers surrounding a central bud. The scales store food and are attached to a basal plate (the bottom of the bulb where the roots come out). The central bud is the future flower.
2
Corms are swollen underground stems that store food for the plant during dormancy. Unlike bulbs- corms are solid and do not have scales or flesh-like leaves. Since they are solid, the bud, or growing tip, is on the top of the corm, instead of in the centre of the bulb’s scales.
3
Rhizomes are fast-growing underground stems that grow horizontally. Many plants that we consider invasive grow by rhizomes, though many are manageable.
4
Tubers are a type of swollen stem with a leathery exterior. Tubers have eyes, or growth nodes, from which the new plants grow. To propagate plants, all you need to do is lift the plant and cut off healthy pieces of tuber, each with about three eyes on it.
Allow leaves to wither naturally for 6 to 8 weeks after blooming before digging. Remove tops close to the corm. Leave to dry for one day. Store newly formed corm and cormlets in open boxes of peat in a cool space for winter.
After first killing frosts, dig up tubers.Remove extra soil and broken roots, and stand upside down for one week to dry. Store in a dry,cool area in peat moss.
Tubers can be dug when all the leaves have yellowed and dried in September. If in pots,gradually decrease watering as leaves yellow and die. Lay pot on side in a cool place, allowing it to dry fully.
When blooming period is over, continue to fertilize and water to build storage for next year.As foliage yellows, gradually reduce watering.Store dry corms in a cool, dry basement. Dust with bulb fungicide/miticide.
Before heavy frost after foliage has died naturally, dig up corms. Store in a dry, cool location until spring.
In fall, lift plants before heavy frost. Let dry in open air. Store plants in boxes or flats in a dry, cool place until April.
Superb as cut flowers and effective in the border, gladiolus blooms start to open from the bottom of the spike upwards. A full two weeks of continuous colour can be obtained from one plant alone. Planting can begin as soon as tree leaves unfold in the garden. Continuous bloom can be achieved from mid-summer until fall by making several plantings at two week intervals up to mid-June, or by planting a choice of cultivars that bloom very early to very late. Very early 65 to 70 days from planting.
Early – 70 to 75 day
Early Medium – 75 to 80 days
Medium – 80 to 85 days
Late Medium – 85 to 90 days
Late – 90 to 100 days
Very Late- 100 to 105 days
Dig up rhrizome with some soil after tops are killed outdoors by the frost. Clean the rhizomes and store in barely moist peat moss in a cool location.
Lift plants in late October; allow foliage to die-down, then remove stems. Store tubers in dry peat moss in a cool basement.
Most Iris are winter hardy in our area. If you would like to divide your iris dig up to divide and replant in compost-rich soil every three to five years for better blooms.
Require four months of good growing conditions to store food in the tuber for next year’s growth. In fall, dry out plants and store ina warm area until spring.
Leave undisturbed as long as blooming is satisfactory. Spent blooms should be removed and flower stem gradually cut back. Keep fertilizing to ensure good bulb formation for next year. Replant if blooming becomes poor. Remove and plant bulb lets (small bulbs) in rich, well-drained soil. Some species will spread naturally. Most lilies can be left to overwinter in the ground in our area.
Before heavy frost, dig up corms. Dry in well-aerated place. Store in dry, cool location.
Name & Type |
Height (cm) |
Planting Depth |
Comments |
Amemones (Corm) |
12.5-20 |
5 |
Soak tubers overnight before planting. Old leaf scarsmark the top. Very colourful. |
Begonias (Tuber) |
30-45 |
5-7.5 |
Available in many colours. Use in shady spots andhanging baskets. Plant cupped side up. |
Caladiums (Tuber) |
30-60 |
5-7.5 |
Beautiful foliage for shady areas. Old stem scars markthe top. Too much nitrogen causes loss of colour, |
Calla Lilies |
60-90 |
5-7.5 |
Elegant white flower on 15 cm spike. |
Cannas (Rhizome) |
45-120 |
7.5-10 |
Large and dwarf varieties. Many of these naturalizewell and come back as perennials. |
Dahlias (Tuber) |
30-90 |
5-7.5 |
Many different colours and flower types. Handletubers with care. Dig after killing frost and store. |
Elephant Ears (Tuber) |
90-180 |
12.5-15 |
Huge green leaves give a tropical look. Biggerbulbs make bigger plants and leaves. |
Gladiolus (Corm) |
120-180 |
7.5-10 |
Flowering spikes in many colours. May need stakingor wind protection. Dig 6 to 8 weeks after flowering. |
Lilies (Bulb) |
75-135 |
10-12.5 |
Perennial favourites in a broad range of colours. |
Ranunculus |
12.5-17.5 |
5-7.5 |
Beautiful assortment of colours. Plant with fingerspointing down. |
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The Basics:
There are five steps for a successful container garden.
Time to Plant
It’s time to reveal the not-so-secret formula for a successful container garden: Thriller, Spillers, and Fillers. This simple technique is a fool proof way to create beautiful containers.
The Thriller:
The thriller is the star of the show. It is the plant or plants that are taller and a bit bolder than the rest. Since the thriller is the focal point, this should be the first plant that you choose for your container. Thrillers can either be planted in the centre with the other plants surrounding it or in the back for a more modern take on container gardens. Whichever design method you choose, make sure that your thriller can be seen from all angles.
Recommended thrillers: Calla lilies, canna lilies, hibiscus, ornamental grasses Angelonia, snapdragons, delphiniums, rosemary, lavender, and kale.
The Filler:
If the thriller is the star of the show, the fillers are the adoring audience. These plants play an essential role in your container garden beautifully filling in the gaps with their foliage and flowers. When choosing your filler, pick one to three varieties that complement the thriller plant. Just remember, too many varieties will draw your attention away from the star.
Recommended fillers: petunia, geraniums, impatiens, lobelia, euphorbia, calibrachoa, alyssum, celosia, marigold, mint, basil,
Spillers:
Just like the word, these plants are deliberately chosen for their ability to spill out of the container. When planting spillers, place them near the edge of the container so that they can easily flow over. These plants can be placed around the entire container or at every angle that the container will be looked at.
Recommended spillers: trailing lobelia, bacopa, sweet potato vine and creeping thyme.
Now that you have the formula, here are some design trends that can help you narrow down your selection.
Magnificent Monochrome
This year it’s all about simplicity and uniform design, and there is nothing more elegant than monochrome. It’s about picking one colour and sticking with it. So, your thrillers, fillers, and spillers, may be different plant varieties but they are brought together through colour. The result is a nuanced container where the textures in each variety can be appreciated.
Aesthetic Edibles
Function and aesthetics come together with this container garden focused on edibles. This trend is ideal if you have limited space or if you simply like the textured look of the foliage. Kale, swiss chard, lemongrass, lavender, and thyme, are all great choices to add texture and fragrance to any container. Enjoy them on their own or mix them in with your annuals.
For the Bees
This design is focused on the pollinators by bringing together a variety of plants that will attract hummingbirds, butterflies and bees. Cosmos, petunias, lantana, calendula, and calibrachoa are just a few of the annuals that will help bring pollinators to your space.
Moon Gardens
Silver and white flowers are beautiful on their own, but when brought together, these plants seem to glow. This dramatic effect is perfect for those spaces that you tend to enjoy in the early morning and evening. For added impact, add in a night-blooming flower to the mix.
Mix and Match
The only rule for this trend is that there are no rules. So be creative, and have fun exploring a variety of plant combinations. Mix annuals, perennials, and tropical plants together, throw in some herbs, or add in some vegetables-the only limitation is your imagination.
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Step 1: Survey your Property
Spring is an opportunity to get your garden ready for new growth. For this first step take a notebook or your phone with you to help record both your findings and ideas.
Start the process by walking throughout your property. Pay attention to areas that were damaged/died over the winter, but also, find the spots that you would like to introduce new gardens, water features, or simply add a new spot to sit and relax.
Step 2: Put Winter Away
One of the best ways to leap into the next season is to store any remaining winter items away. So, pack up your winter wreath and any lingering holiday décor, and remove the evergreens and glitter branches from your urns so that the container can be reused for your spring plantings. Mid to late April is also a great time to remove any protective wrappings or coverings from your trees and shrubs. However, keep those layers handy so that they can easily be covered again if there is a risk of frost.
Step 3: Remove the Debris
For this next step, you will need a rake, gloves, compost, and garbage bags, as it’s time for an outdoor Spring Clean.
Windy weather can leave your lawn cluttered with branches, leaves, and even litter. This not only looks unattractive but the dead leaves and branches could also become home for rodents and insects. So, get outside, clean up the clutter and end the day with a fresh slate for Spring.
Step 4: Polish your Patio Furniture
Although not every day will be warm enough to lounge on the patio, now is the time to bring the furniture out from storage. Did you know that cleaning your patio furniture regularly will not only make it sparkle but will also protect your investment?
Here are a few simple tips to help get your patio furniture spring-ready:
1. Wipe down your furniture with the recommended cleaner from the manufacturer. When cleaning, wipe down any residue and dirt, don’t forget about the grooves.
2. Now, it’s time for the cushions. Start by vacuuming each one, remembering to remove any dirt that may be hiding in crevices or around the buttons. Once the dirt and dust are gone-it’s time to get scrubbing with a gentle mixture of dishwashing liquid and water. If you have mildew, try adding a very small amount of borax (about ¼ cup) and allow it to soak for about 15 minutes. Rinse well with a garden hose, towel dry, and then stand to air dry.
3. For an extra layer of protection, consider spraying your patio furniture with an Outdoor Fabric protector.
Don’t forget to sweep and wash your deck so that you have the perfect space to show off all of your hard work!
Step 5: Garden Clean Up
Grab your garden gloves, a few hand tools, and start digging. No, we are not planting yet, but this next step will get your garden ready. Start by removing any debris (leaves and branches) that may have collected over winter. If left alone, these decaying materials could become the perfect home for moisture-loving insects, like earwigs. Now, take a survey of any vegetation that is remaining. Do you see any old annuals or vegetables peeking through? If so, pull them out, roots and all, so that you create a space for the May plantings to grow.
Early spring, before shrubs and trees start their growth spurt, is also one of the best times to transplant. So, take a look at your garden and see if anything needs to move. If transplanting, make sure to add some Triple Mix and a transplant fertilizer, like Garden Gallery’s Plant Starter, to get the roots off to a healthy start.
Step 6: Prune
Pull out those pruning shears for a spring trim. April is the perfect time to give your summer flowering shrubs, trees, and perennials a bit of a trim. For the spring flowering trees and shrubs, give them their annual clean-up after they bloom.
Start by removing any dead or damaged wood, then strategically cut to control both the shape and size of the plant. When cutting, remove the shoots or branches back to their primary branch so that new growth can easily occur. Be careful, heavy pruning can inadvertently cause the plant to feel stressed. So as a rule of thumb, limit your pruning to no more than one-third of the plant.
Step 7: Prepare your Beds and Containers
Now, that the clean-up is done- it’s time to prepare your gardens for spring growth. To get your gardens ready, add in a new layer of triple mix to infuse the space with a boost of nutrients. This is also the time to start making your list of the plants that you want to add this year. To help with this process, take a wander or two through the garden centre or online to help make your list. Have fun with this process. When considering what to add, don’t forget about outdoor décor, these innovative features will add personality to your landscape making it a space that is truly yours.
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When considering your front door decorating, think about how to invite spring into the entire space. Introducing natural elements, like grapevine balls, curly willow, dogwood branches, and pampas grass into your entryway décor is an easy way to evoke that spring feeling.
Start with a neutral base
When choosing your containers, stay within the colour palatte of the exterior of your home. By using neutral tones for these foundational pieces, your eye will automatically be drawn to those elements that provide that “pop” of colour or items of intrigue that showcase the season. As an additional benefit, these neutral containers make it easy to switch up the interior elements to match the shifting seasons.
Layer it up:
Outdoor décor takes a note from fashion by introducing layering at your front doorway. To get this fashion-forward effect, start with a neutral coloured mat. Coir mats are a great option as they not only provide a neutral colour but the fibres are designed to absorb moisture which is perfect for those wet, muddy, spring days. The coir mat will provide an extra cushion while also adding interest with its textured border.
Now, it’s time to choose the design and colours of your focal mat. Before choosing, consider the other elements that you would like to add to your front entryway. For example, if you would like to add a pot of everlasting yellow forsythia choose a mat that would complement this flower choice. Spring mats come in a variety of patterns, colours, and designs, making it easy to add a bit of your own personality to your entryway.
Gather in Groups
One of the best ways to get that Pinterest design effect is to stay with a few key elements and pull them through your entire spring décor. The key to this design effect is to add features that create that warm, aesthetic appeal without being distracting. This means limiting the number of elements that you add to your space.
Pot groupings are a great way to seamlessly pull a few elements together. One of our favourite ways to do this is to use large scale natural baskets and then add a singular element into each one. For example, one basket could contain pussy willows, a second trailing everlasting greenery and the third everlasting tulips.
The Magic of Spring
The twinkling of fairy lights whether on a railing or encased in lanterns is a delightful way to invite spring into your home. Be playful and add lighted elements throughout your entry way. Railings, hanging basket hooks, and even trees all provide innovative platforms to add a bit of sparkle to your spring.
Door Décor
A conversation about entryway decorating isn’t complete without discussing your doorway. Your front door provides the perfect backdrop to hang your favourite spring décor. This year we are seeing the traditional wreath being elevated with innovative groupings including everlasting succulents, ferns, mosses, and natural elements to provide a lush organic feel all year long.
Tired of wreaths? Then why not explore everlasting wall panels, available in both rectangular or square shapes, for a modern take on the wreath. If you are seeking something a bit more whimsical, we are excited to share that the straw hat has returned. Our favourite design effect is a simple accent of everlasting lavender and a cute gingham bow.
Decorating your front porch and door is an easy way to invite spring into your home.
Add levels to your spring decoration by changing up your entryway mats, outdoor planters, and door decoration. Spring is a time for new beginnings. It is an opportunity to be playful while reconnecting with the beauty of nature. The only limitation to spring décor is your imagination.
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Starting seeds indoors is a great (and inexpensive) way to fill your garden. It gives you a great opportunity to try new and different varieties of plants, as well as experiment with planting times.
The first thing you will need to do is decide what to plant. If this is your first time sowing seeds, a good plant to try is marigolds: they germinate quickly and are not too picky about their conditions. For the more experienced gardener this is the time to explore the seed racks and see what’s new.
Take the time to read the seed packets as they contain a lot of important information. The key things to look for are the planting date (often listed as how many weeks before the last frost) and if you are growing vegetables or fruits, the days to maturity.
Start Indoors: |
Plant: |
10 weeks before last frost |
Celery, eggplant, leeks, onion, peppers, impatiens, lobelia, verbena and perennials |
8 weeks before last frost |
Early head lettuce, begonia, coleus, nicotiana, petunia, salvia |
7 weeks before last frost |
Tomatoes and early basil |
6 weeks before last frost |
Early leaf lettuce, early cabbages, cauliflower, broccoli, brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, kale, and small seeded annuals. |
4 weeks before last frost |
Melon, late basil, cucumber, squash, pumpkin, large-seeded annuals, and flowering vines. |
2 weeks before last frost |
Corn, tender bulbs such as glads, and annual vines such as morning glory |
Week of last frost |
DIRECT SEED beans, carrots cauliflower, cucumber, squashes, heat-loving flowers such as zinnias, marigold, and lavatera. Transplant tomaotes, cauliflower, squash and cucumbers. |
1-2 weeks after last frost |
DIRECT SEED lima beans, soybeans, melons and herbs such as basil, summer savory and sweet marjoram. Start second crop of kale seedlings, and reseed spinach and peas for second crop |
One of the most common mistakes made with seeds is starting them too early. While it may seem like a good idea to get a head start, your plants may become leggy or spindly, leading to weaker plants. Unless you are prepared to transplant your seedlings into larger pots, it is best to stick to the suggested timelines.
If you have the itch to get something started now, consider growing some spouts! They are a great way to enjoy some fresh, homegrown veggies during the long winter months. Try Alfalfa, Radish, wheatgrass, or a salad mix: they are easy to grow and are ready for harvest from 5-12 days.
Starting seeds indoors is a great family project! You can even make it into a fun experiment and log which seeds sprouted first, then measure them weekly throughout the season to see which plants thrive in our area.
One of the fun things about seeds is there are often many unique plants that aren’t available later as seedlings. You can inexpensively try a new variety or two, or even a new plant every year and see what works for you. Another way to try new seeds out is to see if a neighbour or family member wants to swap a few seeds of another variety and you can decide at the end of the season which you liked better.
After you have selected your seeds, you will need something to plant them in. Seeding trays are often the easiest way to sow seeds, but you can also use peat pellets which can be found at most garden centres. Make sure your tray comes with a lid as it helps to keep the seeds warm and damp during the initial growing period. If you are re-using trays be sure to give them a good wash before starting this year’s seeds.
When starting seeds indoors it is important to use a soil specifically for seeds. These mixes are lightweight and help ensure your seeds do not become waterlogged, or too dry. We recommend Pro-Mix Premium Organic Seed Starting mix. Seeds like consistent moisture, and we recommend using a misting spray bottle to keep them damp.
Once your seeds are planted (and covered) they will need good, bright light. Place them near a bright window, or you can use grow lights. As soon as your seeds show signs of germination (sprouts) remove the lid or cover to ensure the seedlings receive fresh air. It is a good idea to turn your trays every week so your plants grow straight and don’t lean towards the light. Some varieties of seeds require some extra warmth during the first week or two of germination: place them on top of your refrigerator, or you can purchase a heat mat for seedlings.
The final step for your seeds is to transplant them outdoors. Plants grown indoors need hardening off before they are planted outdoors. After the last frost date, start by setting them outside in a shady, sheltered spot, initially for half a day, then gradually leaving them out all day. Progressively move them into sunnier and windier areas to acclimatize to garden conditions.
Sowing seeds indoors is a great way to try fun new varieties, and a budget friendly way to fill the garden. Don’t just dream about your garden, start your seeds indoors and you will be enjoying it sooner than you think!
]]>There are, without doubt, birds in your garden now. If you wish to encourage more birds and more varieties of birds around your home, you can do so by providing a variety of trees and shrubs, particularly those that provide food in the form of fruit, berries, nuts or seeds.
]]>All trees and shrubs will provide something of value to birds nesting sites, insect food, shelter from weather and predators.
There are, without doubt, birds in your garden now. If you wish to encourage more birds and more varieties of birds around your home, you can do so by providing a variety of trees and shrubs, particularly those that provide food in the form of fruit, berries, nuts or seeds.
If you grow Sweet Cherries, you know they have to be netted to prevent the birds from taking them. Mayday trees and Shubertís Chokecherry have fruit we do not find palatable but is enjoyed by birds. Sour Cherries that we use for pies also make a nice ornamental small tree.
Many trees have desirable fruit for birds, which we hardly notice, however the birds find with ease since the fruit is not highly coloured. Russian Olive is a good example and with its silver foliage and fragrant yellow flowers, it makes an excellent choice for gardeners.
If your garden is large enough for those tall trees, you will attract Orioles, Tanagers and the Red-eyed Vireo as they prefer the safety of the high upper canopy.
Small fruit, such as Currants, Raspberries, Blackberries and Gooseberries will certainly attract birds. Blueberries will have to be netted as they are so desirable. Among ornamental shrubs, there are many with choice fruit. The dark mature fruit of Elderberry is ravenously eaten by many songbirds, including Thrushes and Warblers. All Viburnums except the double-flowered Snowball, have berry fruit. The fruit of the High Bush Cranberry is not usually taken by birds, but can be a life-saving source of food in severe winters. Nannyberry fruit is found more palatable and is a favourite of the Brown Thrasher. Other shrubs with berries are: Oregon Grape Holly, Flowering Currant, Bush Honeysuckle, Rugosa Rose, Redleaf Rose, all Dogwoods, Serviceberry, Privet, Coralberry, Snowberry, and Autumn Olive. The fruit of the Cotoneaster and Firethorn are not usually taken by birds.
The brilliantly coloured berries of Mountain Ash are eagerly devoured by Robins, Cedar Waxwings and other birds. Many varieties and forms of Mountain Ash are available and they are highly ornamental trees. (The birds do not like the fruit of the variety ëLeonard Springer). If not eaten in the fall, they persist on the tree all winter. Their height above snow cover provides food when mid-winter sources are scarce and are also used in early spring by the first returning migrants.
Seed-eating birds such as Redpolls, Pine Siskins and Goldfinch find an abundance of seed on this attractive tree. It is particularly valuable to those birds which stay with us all winter.
The dense foliage of Spruce, Pine, Fir, Larch and Hemlock provide secure nesting sites for many birds and an ample supply of seeds from their varied cones. Cedar Waxwings love the red fruit of the Yew in the early fall.
If you can provide a wild spot in your garden for tall Grasses, Thistles, Goldenrod and Ragweed, you will add greatly to your list of bird visitors ñ Horned Lark, Meadowlark, Butings, Bobolink and others. In a cultivated garden, ornamental grasses can be used, leaving them to stand into the winter with their supply of seeds. So too, with many annual and perennial plants, which we normally remove or cut down in the fall; if left in place, they provide abundant seed for birds in winter. For example, Sunflowers, Cosmos, Zinnias and Asters.
A climbing vine with brilliant foliage in fall, Virginia Creeper’s bountiful harvest of shiny black berries is enjoyed by many birds, including Kingbirds, Flycatchers and Bluebirds.
The preferred flower for the Hummingbird is red in colour and tubular in form. Hummingbirds prefer a massed bed as it has to visit about one thousand blooms per day to meet its requirement of sweet nectar. Next to red, hummingbirds prefer orange and pink but also visit other colours of flowers. Other summer flowers that attract are ñ Petunias, Phlox, Snapdragon, Cleome, Sweet William, Nicotiana and Zinnias.
Favourite perennials include Gladioli, Red Hot Poker, Monarda, Bleeding Heart, Columbine and Penstemon. Vining Honeysuckles like Dropmore Scarlet and Heckrot’s Goldflame have the correct shape and colouration. Also, Morning Glory, Trumpet Vine and Scarlet Runner Bean. Flowering shrubs include Weigela, Beauty Bush, Butterfly Bush, Coralberry, Flowering Currant and Flowering Quince.
Hummingbirds need eight times their weight in water everyday. If your property does not include a pond or stream, providing water in a birdbath or large saucer will bring birds to your garden and keep them coming back. Sugar-water dispensers designed to attract Hummingbirds are also available.
The larger the menu you offer, the more types of birds you will attract. Try bread crumbs, dried fruit, suet, cracked corn and Sunflower seeds. Many birds will feed from an elevated tray, while some will feed only on the ground; for others, a seed encrusted ball of suet suspended from a tree is ideal.
Enticing birds to your garden with desirable fruit and seeds will help greatly in controlling insect populations, as most birds prefer a varied diet. The importance of insect control by birds can hardly be over-rated. Robins may take garden-friendly earthworms, but also feasts on Ants, Beetles, Cankerworms, Caterpillars, Cutworms, Crickets, Flies (puppae and adults), Slugs, Snails, Sowbugs, Spiders, Termites, Wireworms, and Weevils. Wood Warblers are almost 100 per cent insect eaters.
In bringing birds to your garden, you add a new dimension of interest and will be rewarded by their colour, movement and song. The trees and shrubs will enhance your garden so you benefit again.
Landscape Ontario Horticultural Trades Association represents the leading garden centres in Ontario. As one of the select garden centres which has achieved “Approved Member” status, we assure our customers receive a high level of service, a good range of quality plants and associated products, together with professional advice and information]]>In this case, we use spikes or hard foam. With five flowers of equal length, we outline the circumference and the height of the arrangement. The remainder of the flowers, which should all have equal stem lengths, should be inserted in between. Fill out with leaves.
Mark the outline with three flowers, two of equal length and the one to be inserted in the middle of the arrangement, a little longer. The remainder of the flowers can now be divided within this triangle. Here, also some leaves or berries can be used to add accents.
The first stem should be twice or three times as high as the vase. The second stem should measure two-thirds of the first, and the third stem should be one-third of that height or even lower. In the centre, a firm leaf can serve as a transition between flowers and the vase or bowl. Now, add some smaller leaves to soften the straight lines and the arrangement is complete.
1
Allow newly bought flowers, still in their wrappings, to drink clean, fresh water for a while.
2
Make sure the flowers are put into a clean vase.
3
You will enjoy your flowers longer if you feed them cut-flower food. Make sure you give them the right amount.
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Before arranging the flowers in a vase, first cut off one inch from each stem.
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Stems should never be broken off or flattened not even woody stems. Scraping off the bark is also a fallacy.
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Leaves should never be covered by water. They will only make the water dirty and will shorten the lives of the flowers.
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Do not forget to top up the vase regularly with clean, fresh water.
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During the night, flowers will benefit from a lower thermostat setting.
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Flowers can not stand direct sunlight and drafts.
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Daffodils can be deadly to other flowers because they secrete a poison in the water. After trimming, leave daffodils on their own for a whole day. Do not cut them again when combining with other flowers.
Landscape Ontario Horticultural Trades Association represents the leading garden centres in Ontario. As one of the select garden centres which has achieved “Approved Member” status, we assure our customers receive a high level of service, a good range of quality plants and associated products, together with professional advice and information.
]]>Want to keep your blooms lasting longer? Follow a few of these simple cut flower care ideas and you will keep your blooms vibrant and long lasting.
Be sure to use a clean the vase, fill it with room-temperature water mixed with a Floral Life extender packet, which is included with your flowers. The Floral life extender is basically sugar that helps keep the bacteria count in the water low.
Re-cut the stems, every few days. Remove ¾” from the bottom of the stem, cutting the stems on an angle is the best for the flowers to continue to take up water. Be sure to use a sharp knife or floral snips/scissors to prevent squishing the stems. Also, remove any blooms or foliage that end up below the waterline in the vase.
Tip: want to keep the flower arrangement looking like the pros, tie a piece of twine or wire around the top of the stems before you remove them to re-cut, this will keep all the blooms in their place.
Last but not least – check your flowers daily, see if they need a top up on water. If you need to completely replace the water make sure to clean the vase thoroughly, add room temperature water and a new Floral life extender.
]]>Terrariums are the perfect way to perk up your indoor space! These mini tabletop gardens are easy to care for and maintain. All you need is a glass container, soil and a pinch of creativity!
Make Your Own Terrarium from GardenGallery on Vimeo.
With winter slowly creeping past us, it is important to take as many steps as possible to keep our indoor air clean! Advances in home construction have worked wonders for our energy bills due to more airtight building practices. This means however, that air flow throughout the home isn't as good as it could be. Thankfully, there are some quick fixes to assist with air purification in the home, that are also environmentally and budget friendly! House plants are a natural way to purify and clean your home, not to mention a great tool to decorate. Here is a quick list of 5 plants to help clean the air in your home!
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Snake plants, or Mother-In-Law’s Tongue are one of the most recommended plants for improving air quality in a home. What makes this plant so great for improving air quality is that it releases oxygen at night. Most plants do the exact opposite and absorb oxygen during the night. This plant also acts as a filter for toxins such as formaldehyde. The snake plant is also very cost effective and easy to obtain making it an ideal choice for your home.
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Another great plant to improve air quality is English Ivy. English Ivy is known to improve air quality by eliminating mold particles. This means that mold allergy sufferers will be able to breathe easier with the presence of an English Ivy Plant. English Ivy is also an easy to care for plant, and with minimal upkeep will make an excellent addition to the home. It is widely available and fairly inexpensive as well.
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Spider Plants are another choice to help with airborne toxins in the home. Spider Plants can help to filter out many different toxins such as carbon monoxide and formaldehyde. Spider Plants are also very resilient, making it an easy to care for plant, and a great place for beginner plant owners to start with. Spider Plants are very easy to regrow as they flower into “spiderettes” which can be cut off and planted. This makes them another inexpensive choice to improve air quality.
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Peace Lilies have been found to help with the reduction of many different airborne toxins. Two toxins they can help to clean are Benzene as well as Trichloroethene. Peace Lilies can also assist with keeping moisture in the air. The soil Peace Lilies grow in can also assist with absorbing airborne toxins so long as the plants are kept trimmed at the soil level, and the soil is partially exposed to the air.
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Another easy to care for plant that can reduce airborne toxins is Boston Ferns. Boston Ferns require little attention aside from frequent watering, making them another great option for beginner plant owners. Like Spider Plants, Boston Ferns can filter out formaldehyde, but can also help to filter out ozone in high pollution areas.
Overall, plants can be an inexpensive way to assist with airborne allergens and toxins as well as a great way to improve the look of your home. From Spider Plants, to Boston Ferns this list of plants will help you get started with the improvement of air quality in any living space! Will you incorporate any of these plants into your home?
]]>Winter is a busy time at the bird feeder because of the lack of food due to the cold temperatures. It’s key to keep your bird feeder topped up with bird seed from dawn until dusk so the birds have a chance to get enough energy to keep them warm through the frigid nights.
High Energy feed is best for winter like Black oil sunflower, peanut, corn and suet. Black oil sunflower is the favorite choice in the bird world.
Using a bird feeder with a roof or overhand will keep food dry and prevent it from getting snow covered.
A fun and quick feeder to make uses only a few things and makes the feathered friends extremely happy.
YOU WILL NEED:
STEP 1
Pour some bird seed into a foil tray or baking pan (keeps the bird seed off your floor)
STEP 2
Poke 2 holes on the end of each tube (later you will use the pipe cleaners to make a hanger). Spread peanut butter or shortening on the paper tube.
STEP 3
Roll the tubes in the bird seed covering the entire tube
STEP 4
Attach a pipe cleaner to make a hanger to hook on a branch.
All done! Hang it outside on a branch and now you have a simple and fun bird feeder for your feathered friends.
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